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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end names. However, situated high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.